As such, this is a conversation that you need to have with your AHJ, because only they can tell you which affordable options (if any) are available to you.Īs for the equipment already installed, somebody specced that. NEC 2020 on 400A services means very pricey equipment right now. Really, the bottom-line is what the local amendments are and what AHJs are allowing, given that following the letter of NEC 2020 ![]() You need to talk to your AHJ (permit issuing authority), as 400A disconnects are not affordable, so most AHJs are authorizing dual 200A disconnects. The most affordable way to do that is a unit called a "Meter-Main", which places both the meter and the main breaker(s) in a single unit.ĭepending on how you read it, Code says you need either 2 disconnects or even 1 master disconnect at the meter. You need disconnect switch(es) at the meter. It may be more expensive to "double down" on the wrong meter base than to junk it and get the right one. Prepare for the possibility that you bought the wrong meter base. It is simply not affordable to have a separate disconnect from a main breaker, so the main breaker is used as the disconnect.Įven if they were separate, the main breaker would have to be immediately after the disconnect, because you can't have a long run of non-breaker-protected cable waiting for a nail hit. ![]() Keep in mind that when I say "disconnect", I mean "main breaker". The industry has responded with affordable products that largely comply. What you may not know is Washington is on NEC 2020, which changes the rules for meter pans and disconnects. So what I have is as follows:Ī Eaton cooper b line meter base catalog no 324n and 2 eaton Eccvh200r disconnects as well as 2 standard 200amp house panels. So anyhow this is actually a 320amp service (residential 400 I am told) that is necessary due to an on demand water heater for my radiant heat that requires 100amps itself (3/40 amp breakers). Obviously needed to be asking more and different questions when he was here but live and learn. And then some brief information from the inspector when I called him out to approve backfilling the trench regarding the choice of wire. This is a house that I have been building for my family, 100% by myself (ok I sub contracted the gutters).Īs far as the equipment purchased so far, it was on a recommendation from the engineer at the power company that was fairly vague (regarding the meter base and disconnects and the 400+ feet of 3" schedule 40 that I had to install from the nearest available transformer to where pud was willing to put the meter and then to my house from there). I need to clarify my situation so that I can ensure getting proper and complete answers which so far you have been excellent about giving. If so then what do I use to do so and to downsize to something that the lugs on my disconnects and panels will accept?Įdit. ![]()
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